Jim Thompson’s legacy elevated through modern textile craftsmanship

Today, there are only a handful of names in the contemporary world of textiles that have a significant historical legacy and an incredible biography woven into their backstory. Jim Thompson is rich in romance. The Delaware native was a serviceman in South Asia and working for the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), the U.S. intelligence agency. When the conflict ended, he found himself in Thailand, building a new life rooted in his fascination with the beauty and craft inherent to the nation. It was a time when silk weaving was threatened by machine-made fabrics and he discovered a community of exceptionally skilled silk weavers in Bangkok. He worked closely with them to develop production and introduced them to other talented weaving communities, including one in Pak Thong Chai, Korat – a province in the North East of Thailand. His efforts were instrumental in reviving Thailand’s silk industry, a legacy that endures today.

Now the Jim Thompson brand, and ‘The Thai Silk Company’, is synonymous with the finest silk production in the world. The brand has expanded with No. 9 Thompson and Fox Linton, creating distinctive identities that capture different markets. The triptych of brands showcases a spectrum of possibilities in textiles, particularly in their new fall collections, while maintaining the same core DNA of craftsmanship and a uniquely international sensibility, produced in the world’s finest mills.

The Jim Thompson brand is the foundation on which everything is crafted – a blend of heritage and modernity. It remains entirely Thai in style and is still produced in the country to the highest standards possible. There are core Jim Thompson styles that will never be replaced, however, with two launches each year for fall and spring, the additions play an important role in the brand's dynamic.

This season, The Shan Highlands Collection is inspired by the mountainous landscape, imagery and people of the Shan Hills, which stretch from Thailand to Myanmar – an area rich in silver, sapphires and rubies and nuances of numerous different cultures. There are folkloric representations of native animals, detailed expressive flora and abstract repeating patterns. The new collection features nine vibrant variations of fabric, including Naga Embroidery, Karenni Ikat Weave, Kossu, which is 100% Linen, and Palong, a design that was inspired by the local textiles of the Palong community. In addition, The Raffia Collection showcases three weaving techniques – Raffia Weave, Raffia Herringbone and Raffia Diamond – utilising rope made from durable synthetic materials inspired by traditional local materials like banana bark and raffia palm, each preserving a unique natural aesthetic.

No. 9 Thompson was launched in 2007 under the creative direction of the artist Richard Smith, aiming to create a line with the same sense of adventure and respect for craft as Jim Thompson, but with a youthful energy and more relaxed attitude. Each seasonal collection of prints, wallpapers and textiles is created by Richard, taking inspiration from landscapes and the natural world while painting in his studio by the sea in Sussex in the UK. No. 9 Thompson is at home in rural interiors as much as capital city townhouses and apartments.

The new Piccolino Prints Collection and Must Haves II embrace a European freshness and versatility, while the Brushwork Sheers Collection highlights the importance of a global outlook for the brand: Nine sheers and lightweight textures are inspired by Japanese arts and crafts, including Zen Garden, Washi yarn combinations, as well as patterns and brushwork influenced by Japanese artist Kazuo Shiraga, and traditional techniques of Chigiri, Hashigo and Shuji.

Mary Fox Linton was a groundbreaking presence on the British interior design scene of the 1950s, working with a bohemian and celebrity clientele, as well as the most prestigious names in the hospitality industry. The brand, Fox Linton, was founded on Mary’s ethos and became part of the Jim Thompson in 2015. This acquisition ensured continued support of the best mills in the UK and Europe, focusing on the beauty of its soft, instantly appealing colour palettes. The brand also continues to prioritise environmental sensitivity in all aspects of its production. Fox Linton has always been associated with quiet luxury and continues to develop new timeless textiles each season.

For Fall 2024, the brand is celebrating the beauty of natural yarns through its latest Fabrics and Indoor-Outdoor Collection. With six new designs featuring delicate weaves, elegant textures and soft-tone palettes, the Fabrics collection aligns with Fox Linton’s goal of ‘treading softly on our planet’ using natural processes. The stylish Indoor-Outdoor designs carry these same characteristics while maintaining high performance, durability, and aesthetic appeal to create multipurpose fabrics. These new additions tell their story through production as much as through their discreetly patterned weaves.

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