The round brilliant cut or Diamantschliff as it was mathematically calculated by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 considered both the brilliance and fire of the stone. A geometry that inhabits symmetry, reflection, indestructibility, beauty and an accurate perfection of shape.
With UNFOLD designer Uli Budde has studied the anatomy of this shape, focussing less on the value of the diamond, but trying to understand its form. Reducing the volume of the cut stone to flat facets reveals a different understanding of its geometry, and makes it clear and understood by gradual exposure. The examining, unpacking, peeling down and unfolding of the centerpiece of jewelry has resulted in the necklace UNFOLD.

Budde developed the shape using paper models then had the final design rapid-prototyped in wax and cast in gold. The inside of the curling pendant retains the rough marks of it’s laser-sintered mould, while the outside is polished.

A Passionswege project in collaboration with former juweler to the imperial court A.E. Köchert during the Vienna Design Week 2011 from September 30th to October 9th.

Material: Casted gold, 18karat

Uli Budde

Producer: A.E. Köchert Juweliere